Every November 1 or 2, the Catrinas Parade sets out from El Cardo, San Miguel de Allende's historic center is covered in marigolds, and the cemeteries stay lit by candlelight until dawn. It is one of the Day of the Dead celebrations that draws the most travelers from across the country, inside and outside Guanajuato. Here is what you need to plan your itinerary — and where to stand to see it well.
When is Day of the Dead in San Miguel de Allende?
The celebration runs from November 1 to 2, with preparations starting several days earlier. November 1 traditionally honors children who have passed; November 2, adults. The municipality confirms the hour-by-hour program a few weeks before the date, so it is worth checking again toward the end of October before finalizing your itinerary — the exact day of the parade can shift from year to year. Hotels in the center tend to fill up around these dates: in 2022, the city's occupancy reached 90% over the Day of the Dead long weekend.
What to expect from the weather
November in San Miguel brings mild days and nights that cool quickly: highs hover around 23–24°C (73–75°F), but lows drop to 7°C (45°F) toward the end of the month, with skies ranging from partly cloudy to clear. For the parade and night visits to the cemeteries, a warm layer is better than a light jacket — after 8 p.m. the cold is real.
The Catrinas Parade: the route you can't miss
It is the event everyone waits for. It departs from El Cardo and walks to the Jardín Principal, generally around 6 p.m., with hundreds of people dressed and painted as catrinas and calacas, live music and a procession that grows block by block. If you want a spot near the route, arrive at least half an hour early — the Jardín fills up fast, and the sidewalks of El Cardo even faster.
Where to see the most elaborate altars
The city's largest altar is set up in the Jardín Principal, around the kiosk. The Parroquia builds its own, and the Instituto Allende opens its doors to offerings built by the community — worth stepping in even if you are not a student. Bellas Artes also puts one up, usually with more cultural and historical context behind each element of the offering. The Casa de la Cultura and the San Rafael neighborhood add a collective mega offering each year that grows with neighborhood participation. Marigolds also take over the center on their own: in recent years, the municipality has decorated the heart of the city with more than 10,000 flowers. If art interests you as much as altars, also check what Fábrica La Aurora has on those days — its gallery usually joins the season with special tours.
The night of candles in the cemeteries
The cemeteries are where the date feels most intimate, far from the bustle of the Jardín and the parade. The Panteón Guadalupe — the city's oldest —, the old San Juan de Dios cemetery and the Panteón Luz Eterna, in the upper part of town, welcome thousands of families each year who come to clean graves, leave flowers and stay until dawn surrounded by lit candles. In 2022, between November 1 and 2 alone, the city's cemeteries received around 40,000 visitors. Some years, the city government adds activities around them: open-air cinema at the San Juan de Dios cemetery, or a concheros vigil that runs until midnight in the Jardín — ask at the hotel what is scheduled that week. Enter with respect: it is a family night, not a show staged for outsiders.
How to enjoy it from Amatte
The parade passes just minutes from here, so there is no need to rush out. Head up to Aruma before dark — the sunset over San Miguel from the rooftop is the best prelude before going down to the Jardín. When the parade ends, the whole city sits down to dinner: reserve a table at La Baha, Doña Livier or Cantón Birriamen before heading out, because that night they fill up early. And if your trip allows for more days, San Miguel's cultural agenda on those dates usually brings music and festivals too — you can see it in full here.
San Miguel is, along with León and the state capital, one of the places in Guanajuato where Day of the Dead is felt most strongly — and one of the few where you can watch the parade, visit a centuries-old cemetery and have birria ramen on the same night. If you prefer to build the full experience —altar workshop, wine pairing dinner, guided tour with the hotel— our complete Day of the Dead guide at Amatte has the details of what we are preparing for this season.
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